Food

A Michigan Thanksgiving from the Durant family

Like I already said, I'm rarely gonna post on political stuff -- but since this is uplifting, non-partisan, and focuses on food, I'll post it.  Our family put together a "Michigan Thanksgiving", using as many ingredients as possible from Michigan farmers: heritage turkeys, real pumpkins for pumpkin pie, sweet potatoes, greens, jam, bread, honey, chestnuts, cranberries, wine, beer, apples, and more.  Agriculture is Michigan's second-largest industry.

Here's a list of the ingredients, farmers, and a few recipes.  (As for the recipes, the chestnuts and applesauce are paleo, and the rest could be modified.)  I know some economists like to argue that local food is inefficient (expect a post from me on that), but even if you accept that as true (it's only partially true), in this case, Michigan actually is an excellent global producer of a lot of Thanksgiving-style foods.  And my two favorite fruits: cherries and blueberries.

Oh yeah, and we served some venison, courtesy of yours truly.

You can like Clark Durant on facebook here.

Kissing babies and eating junk food: election season, food, and identity

Come election season, politicians don't just have to kiss babies -- they have to eat junk food too.  It's about more than just being polite -- anywhere on the planet, it's an insult to turn down food, so you can't turn anything down without being labeled a jerk.  It's also about identity -- what you eat is an indication of what tribe you belong to.  And so come election season, every damn politician starts eating whatever "ordinary folks" eat.

Pick your party, pick your candidate, it doesn't matter.

"[Candidate X] has tried the new $4.39 Carl’s Jr. jalapeño chicken sandwich (“delicious”), celebrated the Reagan Library debate with fast-food burgers and fries (again, Carl’s Jr.), and dug into a Subway flatbread sandwich while sitting in an airport terminal (“better than the usual campaign diet of morning donuts”)."

That happens to be Mitt Romney, but it could just as easily have been any number of political figures in recent memory.  Remember when Barack Obama tried to connect with people by complaining about the price of arugula?  Or when John Kerry's hotel requests were leaked, and it specified "No Evian", because he was fighting a French image?

Here's the thing.  To the extent that Republican and Democratic candidates went to Ivy League schools and were brought up in the same culture of privilege, then they probably eat more similarly to each other than to a blue collar person of either party.

Let's look at our three most recent Presidents: Bill Clinton, George W. Bush, and Barack Obama.

Bill Clinton

Bill Clinton came from a blue collar background (Arkansas), and only later rose up through the elite establishment (Rhodes Scholar).  His love of fast food was legendary -- he didn't have to pretend to "eat like the common man".  And yes, Clinton was always known for being able to connect, and a large part of that was his blue collar roots.  (Of course, now he's vegan.  Remember, veganism has a lot of identity value now that Clinton's world is the edgy and hip liberal, international scene.)

George W. Bush

George W. Bush is kind of the reverse of Clinton.  He started from a privileged background, but he had a blue collar temperament.  He was always good at connecting with a lot of folks, being a guy who people wanted to have a beer with.  And yes, he ate in a mainstream way too.  This is from a site on what foods various Presidents liked

"There was a handful of things that the President wanted for lunch, and he almost never deviated from that list. There was a BLT...He liked his grilled cheese sandwiches made with Kraft Singles and white bread."

Many people who didn't like Bush would criticize him for "faking it" -- putting on a Texan affect and pretending that he didn't come from a well-off background.  That may be so, what do I know -- but on the other hand, you can't fake eating Kraft Singles and white bread for lunch all the time, far away from the media's flashbulbs.

Barack Obama

Remember during the Presidential Beer Summit, when the President drank a Bud Light?  And honestly, it didn't quite seem like a beer he would actually choose?  That's because President Obama isn't blue collar.   

"For sweets, the Obamas eat Fran's Chocolates, an artisan chocolate brand from Seattle. The president-elect prefers Fran's Smoked Sea Salt Caramel in Milk Chocolate ($24 for a 16-piece box); wife Michelle prefers dark chocolate, says Sean Seedlock, Fran's marketing chief. *Drinks. Obama is a fan of Black Forest Berry Honest Tea. "

Does Fran's Smoked Sea Salt Caramel in Milk Chocolate sound blue collar to you?  That may be one of the reasons why the President continues to have difficulty connecting with a lot of folks.

Now, here's the million dollar question: what does an authentic blue collar candidate eat?  Moose stew.

Food and identity, people -- food and identity.  Food preferences become fairly ingrained after young adulthood, and those relatively-fixed preferences become good signals for what group you're from.

Personality plays a mediating role, but that's for another post.

Performance breakfast

This is the breakfast I ate this morning before Fight Gone Bad 6.  Two salmon sausage patties, two eggs, half of a sliced yam cooked in a little butter.  

I also had a slice of cantaloupe (a word I can never spell) and half of a cup of coffee.

Food and politics

 "David Wasserman, of the nonpartisan Cook Political Report, recently calculated that 89 percent of the Whole Foods stores in the United States were in counties carried by Barack Obama in 2008, while 62 percent of Cracker Barrel restaurants were in counties carried by John McCain." 

The full article is here, mostly about how more people have been choosing to live near others with the same views they do.

Google and Culturomics: What 5 million books tell us about how we eat

Google has been digitizing books for years now, and a team of researchers just published some amazing findings based on the corpus so far -- over 5 million books.  That's 4% of all books.  Ever.  Printed.  You can read about the paper here.  The full paper is easy to read, and incredible (free with registration).  Google also released this tool to view the frequency of any n-gram since 1720.  (An n-gram is a set of characters separated by a space.  1-gram = technology, 1942, R2D2; 2-gram = yellow fever, John Wayne.  And so on.)   I wish they had tools like this when I was writing history papers back in college.

So what can we learn about health, and how we used to eat?  (Click on each title for a larger image.)

The Decline (and Rise) of Cooking with Animal Fats

tallow, lard, margarine, vegetable oil

  • The good guys: Tallow and lard see a steep decline in the mid-20th century.  Good news -- there is a noticeable up-tick after 2000.
  • The bad guys: Margarine is a war product.  The first spike is during WWI, and it spikes again during WWI.  And then there's a spike in the 50s.  Vegetable oil continues a slow and steady rise.

Vegans Are Taking Over Vegetarianism

vegan, vegetarian

 

Coffee Overtakes Tea as Stimulant of Choice

coffee, tea

 

Bacon Destroys Cupcakes

bacon, cupcakes

  • You can see the fat phobia decades from the 50s to now.  Thankfully, we appear to be coming to our senses (and are writing more books about bacon).

 

So what other stories can you find in the data?  Leave any good ones in the comments.

Updated Fri 6pm EST:

How to eat wild at Chipotle

Chipotle is one of the best fast food chains for eating wild.  They have higher quality meat and ingredients, and it's fully customizable.  There aren't a lot of menu options, so here's how to do it.

1. Form: Order the salad, not the burrito - you can get any of the same ingredients, you just lose the tortilla
2. Filler: Pass on the rice and beans, but go for the sauteed vegetables - rice and beans are filler anyway, which is why they put them before the meat.  Realize that Chipotle wants to lower their food costs by stuffing you with the cheap stuff. 
3. Meat: Pick any meat - I love carnitas or barbacoa, but they're all good. *See bonus technique below for getting more meat without paying for it.
4. Toppings: Add pico de gallo  and guacamole, maybe add sour cream, but pass on the corn and cheese - Sour cream isn't orthodox paleo, but it's full of fat, which is much better than anything sugary.  
5. Dressing: Pass on the dressing, but use some of the hot sauce instead.  Mystery dressings can be loaded with sugar and gluten. Just ask for hot sauce (medium or hot) on the side, and use it as your dressing.
 
* Bonus Technique: There are ways to get more meat without paying more.  When you skip the rice and beans, your salad will look a bit scrawny.   Don't ask for extra meat (they'll charge you), but say something like "Make sure you put enough barbacoa on there" or "Don't hold back" or "That salad looks a little empty, can you make sure you've added enough?"  (Hat tip to Clark for the bonus technique.)
 
* Updated Bonus Technique: Commenters Sanjay and CJG suggest another brilliant trick to get more meat.  Ask for half of two different kinds of meat.  It's hard for them to do half spoonfuls, so the end result is that you get more.  This is a highly advanced technique and should not be tried by novices.
 
And there you have it.  You'll be able to fill up for under $10, you won't fall asleep afterwards, and you won't have to cheat on that late night run to go grab some chow with your buddies.
 

Can the government tell you what to eat?

Food is on the tip of everyone's tongue these days.  It even came up during Elena Kagan's Supreme Court hearings today.  You can watch the video below.  Senator Tom Coburn of Oklahoma asked if the government could pass a law mandating that people eat three fruits and three vegetables a day.

 
Coburn's question really was about the Commerce Clause, not food.  The Constitution gives Congress the power "To regulate Commerce with foreign Nations, and among the several States, and with the Indian tribes".  Despite the fact that the word "regulate" did not have the same meaning when it was written as it does today, the interstate portion of the clause has been interpreted by the Supreme Court (most definitively during the New Deal) to mean that the Federal Government can regulate anything that might possibly impact interstate trade.  Essentially, anything and everything.  Even what we eat, is Coburn's point.
 
Health care and food taxes/regulations are deeply intertwined.  (Health and food are deeply intertwined.)  We're increasingly seeing calls for soda taxes here in New York City.  It's in line with other "sin taxes" (smoking, gambling), which politicians find easier to levy.  Congress definitely has the power to tax.   But the public willingness to accept food taxes and eventually, more restrictive federal regulations, will only increase as people feel that they are paying for other people's healthcare.
 
To a large extent we already do pay for other people's healthcare via Medicaid and Medicare -- and even through private health insurance (where I am pooled with others, many less healthy than I, to arrive at a group rate).  But the perception and reality of Peter paying for Paul's healthcare will only increase under the new health care legislation.  And the implications are pretty easy to follow: If I'm paying for your healthcare, you better believe I'm going to tell you how to eat.  This certainly won't come through prohibitions and mandates (no politician is that stupid), but through taxes and incentives.
 
What really scares me is that the long-time foundation of the USDA food pyramid has been a food group, grains, that humans basically did not eat prior to the Agricultural Revolution.  And don't forget the decades long and deeply misguided War on Fat.  Doesn't exactly inspire confidence!

The beauty of a system based more on individual responsibility is that people have the freedom to live as they please: healthy or unhealthy.  Of course, then you have to let people face the consequences of their decisions, as if they were fully capable adults.

My first CSA meat share

I received my first ever CSA box yesterday.  I bought a meat and egg share from High Point Farms.  Every two weeks through the summer they deliver two dozen eggs and 3 cuts of meat.  There's a cheese share too.

My first box had the eggs, a couple pounds of grass-fed ground beef, pastured pork bacon, and italian sausage made from the grass fed beef.  Yumm.  We ate the sausage last night -- pretty delicious.  Pictures below.

The farm is located in upstate New York, about four hours away.  I believe they still have a couple shares available, which they pro-rate if you're interested.  They drop-off at Jimmy's 43 in the East Village every other Monday.

What color are egg yolks?

I always thought egg yolks were yellow.  As it turns out, they're orange.  Who'd have thought. 

Below are the results of a color test that I conducted between eggs from two different sources.  Now, usually when folks do a comparison, they compare between a typical store-bought egg versus an organic or pastured egg.  Well, this time we're comparing an organic egg to a farm-bought pastured egg.  The first egg is from Pete & Gerry's Organic Eggs, which I bought in the grocery store.  The second is from Cricket Creek Farm, which I bought in Vermont last weekend when getting my hunter's ed certification.  See the results below.
 
                  

College

I'm on a bus on my way up to Cambridge, Massachusetts for my 5th year college reunion.  So what better time than now to bore you with reflections on my past five years and with my answer to the age-old question: "If you could do it all over again, what would you do differently?"

If I could change one thing about my college experience, I would have been healthier.  Number one.  Better food, less drinking, more sleep, more sun, more exercise.  Did I mention less drinking?

I'm sure my four years were a lot like others' when it came to food.  French fries, pizza, and Dr. Pepper were the foundation of my food pyramid.  The cafeteria did have a few healthy options, and I would often make a little side salad.  But most people have this wierd notion that eating healthy is additive -- that if you add a few healthy items to your meal, like vegetables, you're eating healthy.  For most of us though, the first step to eating healthy is subtractive -- avoiding a lot of the worst foods out there.  And four years of all-you-can-eat is a bit more conducive to the additive approach to nutrition than the subtractive one.

I drank a lot too.  I mean, not particularly more than any other extroverted guys at school (okay, maybe a little more), and Harvard isn't exactly known for prowess in drinking (though saying that might be a calculated decision to get you to underestimate us in a drinking competition, a dangerous mistake). But I remember losing ENTIRE DAYS to hangovers.  Big night out, to bed in the wee hours, and not being able to crawl out of bed (except to the bathroom) until dinner the next day.  And this was normal.

For me, being healthier wouldn't have been about weight.  I didn't gain much weight, if any, during college.  First and foremost, it would have been about mood and outlook.  My mood and energy was up and down, up and down.  My senior year, one of my good friends once called me "The happiest sad guy he knew."  What the hell type of commentary is that?  My mental state has improved to where I have difficulty remembering the types of negative thoughts that can enter a college student's head.  More on that later.

The second area would have been complexion -- my complexion is drastically improved and I rarely, if ever, get pimples or zits anymore.  This is a big deal.

And third, I would have been able to get more done.  See: "Hangovers, 12-hour".

Anyhow, it will be interesting to see how people turned out.  There's always a few that put on 25 pounds and look like they're 40 years old.  Who are the unlucky ones?

(Also, something to look forward to -- I'm dropping by Dan Lieberman's lab, where they've done all the cool work on barefoot running.  The bad news is that they're busy doing experiments and so can't do any gait analysis.  The good news is that they're running experiments on RAW MEAT!)

The origins of corn

Corn, or maize, now accounts for over 20% human caloric intake.  But the exact origins of corn were in doubt until recently.  Early genetic experiments (before genetic testing) pointed to teosinte.  And newer genetic experiments (proper sequencing) suggest that teosinte was domesticated starting about 9,000 years ago:

"In order to trace maize’s paternity, botanists led by my colleague John Doebley of the University of Wisconsin rounded up more than 60 samples of teosinte from across its entire geographic range in the Western Hemisphere and compared their DNA profile with all varieties of maize. They discovered that all maize was genetically most similar to a teosinte type from the tropical Central Balsas River Valley of southern Mexico, suggesting that this region was the “cradle” of maize evolution. Furthermore, by calculating the genetic distance between modern maize and Balsas teosinte, they estimated that domestication occurred about 9,000 years ago."

And it was probably a slow process:

"It is estimated that the initial domestication process that produced the basic maize form required at least several hundred to perhaps a few thousand years."

Read the full New York Times article here.

Assorted links

1. Tanning is associated with optimal Vitamin D status and higher bone mineral density.  (NOTE: But as one commenter pointed out, most tanning salons try to sell you UVA, when this paper is talking about UVB.  Don't rush to the solarium.)  And this:

"There is increased concern about skin cancer, which has created a fear of causative sunlight exposure (9 –12). Melanoma is the most serious form of skin cancer. It should be recognized that most melanomas occur in areas that are not exposed to the sun (13) and that it is the number of lifetime sunburn experiences, the number of moles, and red hair that increase the risk of this deadly disease (12)."

2. Melissa McEwen's poetic description of learning to hunt, dress, butcher, and eat deer

"We carved the body cavity through and through, leaving bare ribs skinless so the light could shine through. The digestive system we left for the vultures, as it belongs to them. I read recently about one of the earliest religious sites, Göbekli Tepe, a marvel considering that hunter-gatherers had no cities, but they bothered to build this temple carved with vultures, lions, and other predators of humans dead...and alive. Some theorize that the hunter-gatherers left their dead here to be eaten by these fierce flesh eating creatures. The word for this is "excarnate," which is very beautiful to me, the idea of sharing your body with other carnivores. I think of then as a time when none owned another, except in death when it was an honor to be consumed and melded with others."

3. Tyler Cowen responds to fears that food markets will be turbulent in years ahead

4. Reasons for optimism: perch in downtown Milwaukee and tilapia in Colorado

5. I'll be in DC this weekend, and I'm looking forward to the well-regarded Mitsitam Cafe at the National Museum of the American Indian. 

"Mitsitam (pronounced Mit-see-tum) means “let's eat” in the Piscataway and Delaware language. The 350-seat restaurant is essentially an extension of the museum, specializing in authentic Native American cuisine. The seasonal menu changes on each equinox and solstice and is divided among five Native American regions: Northern Woodlands, Northwest Coast, Great Plains, Meso America and South America."

Putting the "gather" back in hunter-gatherer

We've talked a lot about hunting recently.  The hunting part of hunting and gathering always steals all the glory -- the thrill of the pursuit, the danger, and of course, the killing.  Men have a tendency to forget about the gathering -- less thrilling perhaps, but no less important.  (Plus, there's plenty of death and killing if you eat the wrong plant, or use plant poisons as weapons.)  So let's do some gathering.

I love these old pictures of me in my aunt's garden in Michigan.  Notice the date stamp: October, 1988.  I'm five years old.  On the left, I am wearing the most kick-ass t-shirt sporting some Emperor penguins.  Pointing down, like "Look, these radishes came from down in the ground!"  On the right, the bunches of carrots are bigger than I am.

          

I have the good fortune to have some rooftop space at my apartment in Manhattan.  Last summer, we set up a rooftop garden.  Automatic sprinklers and everything.  But right now it's a total mess.  Here are a few photos from last year.  Not everything we grew was "perfectly paleo", but hell, we grew it ourselves and that's saying a lot for four dudes living in Manhattan.

          

 

Race, Income, and the Child Obesity Task Force

First Lady Michelle Obama has taken on childhood obesity as her signature issue, and today her task force released its report and recommendations.  I have not had time to read it thoroughly, but from a quick scan, many of the recommendations seem pretty sensible: increase breastfeeding rates, encourage women who breastfeed to do so for a longer period of time (A+), improve the quality of school lunches, and get kids away from the TV set.

But I was struck by statistics on the relationship between obesity, race, income.  Most people probably think that obesity is a problem of poverty and socioeconomic status.  The reasoning goes that the cheapest foods are the least healthy foods, and so people on a budget are eating the worst quality foods.  And the higher your education, the more you know about what's healthy.  This is all true, to an extent.  But the report, to its credit, casts doubts that socioeconomic status is the primary driver of disparities in health outcomes.

In reviewing disparities in obesity rates, the report mentions race first:

"Childhood obesity is more common among certain racial and ethnic groups than others. Obesity rates are highest among non-Hispanic black girls and Hispanic boys. Obesity is particularly common among American Indian/Native Alaskan children. A study of four year-olds found that obesity was more than two times more common among American Indian/Native Alaskan children (31%) than among white (16%) or Asian (13%) children. This rate was higher than any other racial or ethnic group studied."

For anyone paying the slightest attention to obesity and diabetes, this should come as no surprise.  Obesity and diabetes is most prevalent among races, like American Indians, that have had fewer generations to adapt to the agricultural revolution and modern foods.  Yet it's amazing how this plain as day finding doesn't cause more people to take a longer historical perspective when evaluating the health benefits of grains or dairy, or whether eating meat and natural fats might actually be good for you.

The report continues on socioeconomic status (my emphasis):

"Among adults, obesity rates are sometimes associated with lower incomes, particularly among women.

...

The relationship between income and obesity in children is less consistent than among adult women, and sometimes even points in the opposite direction. Another study from the early 2000s found that only among white girls were higher incomes associated with lower BMI. Among African-American girls, the prevalence of obesity actually increased with higher socioeconomic status, suggesting that efforts to reduce ethnic disparities in obesity must target factors other than income and education, such as environmental, social, and cultural factors."

See page 62 for further discussion of  "Is Poor Diet a Low Income Problem?"  The answer?

"...the similarities are more striking than the differences..."

Income and poverty matter -- see the section on food deserts, for example -- but it's not the whole story.  Two key points:

1. Obesity is a national issue that is effecting everyone, rich and poor alike.

2. If we want to understand the underlying cause of obesity and diabetes (and heart disease and hypertension and, and, and), look where the genetic disparities point.

In general, foods that are new to the human diet are killing us.  In general, foods that have been apart of the human diet for the longest time make us healthy and vital.

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